FAQ & How-To

Shopping & Payment:

Can I cancel or return my order?

If you want to either cancel or return an item, for whatever reason, please don’t hesitate to contact us through the contact form or via Etsy. Please go through your Purchase & Review page on Etsy for this.

If you, for any reason, aren’t satisfied with your order you may return the item(s) within 30 days of delivery for a full refund or exchange (the cost of sending the items back will have to be paid by the buyer). Once we receive the items we will process your refund or exchange within several business days.

What about taxes?

All prices are including 21% VAT, additional (import) tax is to be paid by the buyer.

What form of payment do you accept?

We accept PayPal, credit and debit cards, Etsy gift cards and other international payment methods through the Etsy website.

When using Direct Checkout (including iDeal for the Dutchies!), the payment can take up to 24 hours to clear depending on the verification process Etsy uses of the buyer’s payment.

When we’re on markets, fairs and festivals we accept both cash and card payments, with a preference for cards. We really don’t like running around with cash on us.

 

Do you do wholesale?

Right now we are not adding any retailers to our stockist list.

I want to design a pattern with your yarn, is that possible?

Yes it is! We love designers (since we can’t design to save our lives) and participate in collaborations whenever we can. We also offer a discount for designers that regularly use our yarn in their designs.

If you want to use our yarn in your designs, please drop us a message and we will contact you with further details on collaboration and discounts!

Shipping:

Do you ship to my country?

Yes. We ship worldwide.

What if my order doesn’t arrive?

When ordering you have the option to upgrade your shipping from default to tracked and insure up to €500,-

– Default shipping: When you stick with the default shipping, your items are sent out untracked and uninsured. We can’t check where your order is. We do not offer replacements or refunds on default shipping orders that have not arrived.

– Tracked & Insured shipping: You will receive a tracking number so you can keep tabs on your order. If your item has not arrived in a maximum of 6 weeks after the sent confirmation, please contact us and we will hunt down your order. For insured orders, we offer replacements or refunds if we can not locate your items.

We go on a case by case scenario for undelivered orders. If in doubt, contact us.

When can I expect my order to arrive?

Orders are shipped out A.S.A.P. Usually I ship within 48 hours.

If your order includes a made to order item, it will take longer to produce and process, which I will keep you updated about.

Estimated shipping times:
  • The Netherlands: 1-3 business days
  • Europe: 7-14 business days
  • North America: 2-4 weeks
  • Australia, New Zealand and Oceania: 3-4 weeks
  • Asia Pacific: 3-6 weeks
  • Latin America and the Caribbean: 3-6 weeks
  • North Africa and the Middle East: 3-6 weeks
  • Sub-Saharan Africa: 3-6 weeks

Yarn & Fibers:

Are your products animal and environment friendly?

All our yarn and fiber bases we use are GOTS and/or OEKO-TEX® Class I certified and sourced from non mulesing breeders. We buy locally (which means within the EU) from mills, shepherds and small wholesales businesses that have a transparant way of keeping their animals. Meaning that they treat the animals well, take care of the environment around them and are a treat to deal with.

Fully biological yarn or fibers are near impossible to create when running a small company like we do. Health issues have to be prevented in all animals that are kept in flocks. Yes, the sheep, alpaca’s and other animals will be inoculated and have probably seen a vet in their life (or well, I hope they get to a great old age without having to visit one, but you know what I mean).

How do your dye baths work?

All skeins or fibers in one listing will have come from the same dye bath. We advise you to buy enough yarn or fibers from one dye bath as you need for your project. If you need more than the listed amount of skeins or fibers, please contact us for a custom order.

As a result of hand dyeing no two skeins or rolags will ever be exactly the same. If you want a uniform result with the end product you are making, be it knitting, crochet, felting or weaving, we advise you to buy skeins or fiber from one listing and (if knitting/crocheting/weaving) alternate skeins once every 2 – 4 rows.If using fiber, you can mix and match some of the fibers as you go when spinning or felting.

What (sheep) wool do you use in your products?

We use Merino, Gotland, Bluefaced Leicester, Polwarth, Corriedale and Wensleydale from European based breeders.

You can also find Falkland, Texel, Cormo, German Mountainsheep, Devon, Dartmoor, Jacob, Ouessant, Romney, Shetland, Scottish Blackfaced, Targhee and Zwartbles in our products. A description of what a blend contains is always provided with the product.

What are the storage and working conditions of your items?

All items are made and stored in our smoke-free, cat-friendly, house. Our cats don’t usually get near the dye studio, but there might be some stray cat hairs that hitch a ride your way. We try to prevent this, but hey, they’re cats…

What dye techniques & effects do you use?

Methods:

  • Kettle: Submerging the yarn in the dye solution completely, allowing it to soak up the dyebath.
  • Hand applied: Distributing the dye solution by hand, having full control over where which color goes.
  • Splatter: Random splattering of the solution on the yarn, leaving the position of colors to chance.
  • Dip-dye: Submerge only parts of the yarn in the solution, soaking up color in specific areas. Less control than with hand application, but a smoother transition into other colors.

Techniques:

  • Semisolid:A semisolid involves multiple layers (dyebaths) of a single color. Or one dye bath, allowing the yarn to take up the dye to varying degrees.
  • Tonal: More than one layer of color within the same (or very similar) hues, resulting in pops and shifts in different tones.
  • Variegated: Multicolor yarn. Often dyed in more than 3 different baths and with different methods (kettle, dip, hand application, etc) to achieve the required colorway. This is the most labour intensive technique we use.

Effects:

  • Self-Striping: Yarn dyed with longer lengths of one color so that when knit up, it will produce a stripe in that single color. Often these are made using a sockblank or warping boars to control where the block of color ends. Probably the most labour intensive effect we use.
  • Gradient: Going from one color, or color intensity, to another in a gradual manner. This can happen in a long gradient (so you get an ombre effect when knit up). Or in shorter bursts of color repeats which may result in flashing (or pooling) when knit up.
  • Speckles: Sudden speckles of color trailing over the yarn, giving it a grungy look or making it look like a unicorn pooped confetti on your skein.

What fibers do you use?

All rolags, batts, roving and yarn will have a description of what is in the product. Fibers you will run into in our  products:

  • Sheep;
  • Rabbit (Angora);
  • Goat (Cashmere, Mohair and Pashmina);
  • Llama;
  • Alpaca;
  • Yak;
  • Silk (Tussah, Mulberry, Sari);
  • Angelina fibers (synthetic sparkle);
  • Firestar (Nylon Trilobal);
  • Faux Mohair;
  • Tencel;
  • Bamboo;
  • Flax.

We occasionally use other materials that we can get our hands on, to see if it will work as a mixing agent or addition.

What is a Rolag?

A rolag is created by carding the fiber using handcards and then by gently rolling the fiber off the cards or blending board. Rolags are an easy way to prep your fibers before spinning and will create a woolen yarn.

Rolags are made by hand, which means every single one of them is unique. If you’ve gotten a certain colorway from us in the past, we can try and recreate it by approximation, exact matches are pretty much impossible.

What types of dye do you use?

The dye we use for our products varies per color. Mostly we use acid-dye, fiber reactive colors, mixed with agents to solidify the color retention of the fibers. We also try out some natural methods from time to time. The method used for dyeing will always be listed in the item description. All yarn and fibers have been thoroughly cleaned, yet they might bleed a little on first wash.

There is a knot in my skein!

Yarn doesn’t come in an endless supply of length, and at the mill they tie lengths together before they get sent out in cones. We then transform these cones (of around 3000 meters) into 100 gram skeins. Every skein goes through about 4 different stages at which we filter out skeins we don’t feel represent our brand as best as possible. We do our best but we can’t guarantee that your yarn will not have knots.

 

Does your yarn bleed?

TLDR:

Mild bleeding is common in all hand dyed yarn and if you have a skein with a ridiculously bright color, or speckles, play it safe by rinsing the skein in lukewarm water and some wool wash (a small amount of dish washing liquid works too) and let it dry. If you are in doubt about bleeding, or if you are pairing high contrast colors (neon green with solid white for instance), pick the safe route and give the skein a rinse before you cake it up.

The Science of Dye & Mythical Vinegar

For dye to stick to fibers you need heat + acid. So, some mild bleeding is natural and should not influence your skein as long as you rinse it in cold water. I’d also like to clear up the faulty rumor that soaking your hand dyed yarn in vinegar will help. It will not. Acid dye needs HEAT + ACID to set. So unless you are tossing that vinegar laced skein in a microwave, crockpot or pan for an hour, soaking in vinegar will not make a difference in bleeding. This myth has been going around for ages and it’s time to debunk that sucker.

My dye & rinse method

I simmer 90% of our colorways in a submersion technique, especially the semi-solids are made this way. I don’t just toss in any amount of dye and that’s it, every dye batch consists of a few layers going over the yarn. This means that the total dye time of a single skein can be up to 4 hours if the colorway needs it. The yarn is simmered to the required temperature and I let the skeins cool naturally overnight to keep the yarn soft and plush.

After the dye process and cooling every skein goes through a rinse cycle. That cycle ends after the water that comes from the yarn is clear. The rinse cycle differs per colorway, yarn base, and fiber blend. While one colorway may be clear after just 1 or 2 cycles, others may need 4 or 5. If you’ve ever dyed hair, you know the mantra: rinse til the water runs clear.

Bright colors

Dyeing yarn is a chemical process and despite thorough rinsing, there is always the chance of mild bleeding. There are a multitude of reasons yarn can bleed and some of the (bright*) colorways may bleed because of their chemical makeup. I’ll use the hair example again: You know how it always seems that when you wash your hair a few days after dyeing it, it feels as if there is more dye coming out then when you initially dyed it? That’s what happens when colors bleed normally and it should be gone by 1, maybe 2 rinses.

Speckles

The other case of bleeding in yarn is when it’s a speckle colorway. Yeah, #specklesaresohotrightnow. I know and use them in our yarn too because those little dollops of color are just too awesome. Because of the speckle method I use there are superficial color crystals that will be laying on top of the yarn while the color is setting. After setting (which takes about an hour per speckle skein) I take the skein and rinse it thoroughly, usually under a running shower head to blast all the leftover dye crystals away. Acid dye is very concentrated however and a single crystal that stays behind may cause the yarn to bleed.

What to do if the yarn keeps bleeding?

But what if it keeps bleeding like a sorority girl on Halloween night? Excessive bleeding that occurs in the yarn is usually a case of not having the right combination of heat and acid, thus resulting in the dye not ‘setting’ properly. It can happen that one of the skeins dodges the rinse cycle bullet or the dye isn’t set properly. My first advice: Contact me and we will work something out. Be it a replacement skein or some other way of setting things straight.

There is the option of re-setting the colors yourself. Re-setting dye on yarn is done the same way as setting it: take a pan and pour a cup of white vinegar (or 2 tablespoons of citric acid powder) in it. Fill the pan halfway with water. Dunk the skein in the water. Simmer the pan (don’t boil it!) and leave to simmer for about an hour. Let the skein cool on itself. The next day rinse it out and hang to dry.

Synthrapol

Synthrapol is an industrial strength, pH neutral, liquid detergent used as a prewash and afterwash for dyed or painted fabrics and fibers. Synthrapol has the unique property of keeping loose dye suspended during washing, thus preventing back staining while aiding in the removal of excess color. If you want to make sure with your hand dyed yarn that you keep all the loose pigments away from each other, you could invest in a bottle of Synthrapol. The larger craft stores (Michaels, JoAnn), some fabric and quilting stores, online retailers (Amazon) and dye sellers (Jacquard) carry Synthrapol.

* Colorways that need extra care: Slumber Party, Screaming Satsuma, Killer Tomatoes, Toxie, Diabolique and Your Mother Darns Socks in Hell. See a pattern? Yup, it’s the neon bright colors that are prone to bleeding.

How to:

Care for your yarn & fibers

We advise you to hand wash items made with our yarn or fibers with lukewarm to cold water and a mild detergent made specifically for vulnerable fabrics (ie: wool wash). Drain excess water from the item and lay flat to dry on a towel.

Use the Needle Nest

Needle NestDesigned to store DPNs, circular needles and crochet hooks up to 15 cm. Needle Nest will keep your needles and stitches safe while you’re out and about. No more dropped stitches or needles poking through your bag!

 

 

Using the Needle Nest with DPNs:

Distribute the stitches to the center of your DPN’s and open up the snaps on the Nest. Pop in the DPNs and let the end of your project poke out of the Nest.  Close the snaps so your DPNs and stitches are secured.

Using the Needle Nest with Circular Needles:

Slide your stitches to the center of the cable and place the needle tips in the Nest facing each other. For extra security loop the cable around the snaps before closing the Nest and locking your needles in place

Miscellaneous:

Fiber or Fibre?

Both are in fact correct! Fiber is the US English spelling and Fibre the UK English. We prefer using the American spelling. We can’t really give you a great reason for this, it’s just a matter of preferences.

What languages do you speak?

I am bilingual and speak English and Dutch. Feel free to communicate in either of those languages. I can decipher a bit of German and French. Though I won’t embarrass myself, or insult the language, by attempting to write it. I promise.